Instructional Sewing Dvd
How do I cut and sew silk?
I’d like to start working with silk fabric, but I don’t even know where to start. Can anyone suggest a good instructional DVD or book which would help me. If someone can even give some tips on cutting and sewing that would be awesome as well. Thank you much!!!
Happy Holidays
Claire Shaeffer’s Fabric Sewing Guide or the newer version of the same will have good tips.
Here are mine:
1) Pretreat the fabric as you intend to care for it… wash it if it’s going to be washed, dry clean if it’s going to be dry cleaned. Especially dark silks have a tendency to be loaded with excess dye, and I want it out of the way. If you think you want to wash the fabric, wash a swatch first and check shrinkage and hand. Some silks handle washing with great aplomb — others turn into mere shadows of themselves. Good to know before you commit.
2) Pin the fabric to a paper underlayment and then pattern to fabric and paper. Read Crawford’s article in Nov/Dec 2001 Threads Magazine, “Layout and cut accurately”. This keeps the grain straight, the fabric unstretched and relaxed, and makes the cutting accurate. More accurate cutting, easier sewing, better looking project.
3) Use really sharp scissors. Wipe down the blades with rubbing alcohol before using them, and put a tiny, tiny drop of sewing machine oil at the pivot.
4) If you’re working with charmeuse or 4 ply or similarly very closely woven silks, small “microfiber” needles are nice. Otherwise a fine sharp. Fine ballpoints or jerseys for silk knits.
5) Pressing cloths are very useful with silks.
6) I prefer to open a new box of pins for finely woven silks, rather than use my old pins that may have a few rough spots on them now and then — even though I pitch any snaggly pins as soon as I find them.
On the other hand, I use those monstrous yellow-headed quilting pins
on silk suitings.
7) Test any marking methods you’re intending to use on the fabric before you commit to them. I tend to use plain chalk, but for internal markings like pocket placement dots, I use tailor tacks done with serger chain on loosely woven silks like many suitings. On charmeuse and similar snag-prone silks or silks that needle-mark, I punt and use the industrial method of marking 1/2″ back from the point towards something that will wind up on the inside or otherwise hidden, instead
of marking the exact point.
Old embroiderer’s trick: silk catches easily on every bit of snaggly or dry skin on your hands. Put 1 tsp of white sugar in the palm of your hand, and add enough oil (sewing machine oil, cooking oil, almond oil, whatever you like!) to make a thin paste. Scrub your hands thoroughly with the sugar/oil mixture, paying special attention to cuticles and corners of finger nails. When you think you’ve done enough, wash and dry your hands with soap, and moisturize with something non-greasy (i like Cornhusker’s lotion for this) and then work with your silk. Repeat as needed. Oh, and keep a good emery board by your machine, in case you develop a nail snag.
Take your time, don’t let ‘em scare you, enjoy the journey. Silk’s a great fiber to work with. Start with something relatively inexpensive and with some body, like a duppioni, and you’ll be on your way!
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